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Click here for a Copy of the User Guide for taking the Aquavit out for a sail, A "must Read"
Ken Greg & Linda on the Annual Rendezvous
May 12 2009To use the SJ24 you must log on the "Booking page. It is above here in the Pic of Aquavit at anchor. First time users please log in in the "REGISTER FIRST TIME" use your EMail that you use for all club mail and your own normal password system. Happy Sailing FC Ken May 9 2009We are back in racing form. With loving hands the skippers removed the sea life from the hull and applied flashy new blue BottomKote. It is an Interlux Fiberglass Bottom Kote a nice ablative bottom paint for our area. Thanks very much to Rob,Jan,Mary, Mark P, Mark P,and Bruce for the shared knowledge and competent and safe operation. ( see the pictures on "gallery Page".) ... Ken C... May 1 2009In brief, the San Juan 24 is allowed a maximum Jib size of 163% of the "J" measurement under the rule. Fresh sails and a clean, smooth bottom will work wonders in providing boat speed. There are additional tweaks and rigging adjustments which can help, also. The SJ 24 performs best, according to her rating in winds between 5 and 10 knots. This is due to the narrow hull shape. The SJ 24 is required under the rules to race with a gas outboard rating a minimum of 4 bhp mounted on the transom while racing. It is also reqired to carry a minimum of 3 gallons of gasoline in an external tank. Mast rake is adjusted by setting the length of the forestay and tension in the backstay. The baby-stay is used to create pre-bend in the mast. It is most essential to make certain the mast is rigged straight and centered side to side. Headstay tension and mast rake is managed using an adjustable backstay. January 2008 - NEW MOTOR -The new 8 hp Honda motor has a larger propeller to match the hull speed of a sailboat. It is a bit heavy and mounted on a stronger rack. You lower it by pushing it down, ( a slight wiggle and outward push may help) and set it at he lowest notch for 2 person motoring. It should start easily with the choke out if cold and the choke in when it has been run in the last 2 hours. You need the PLASTIC KEY clipped on, and be in neutral with the throttle closed... Do not have it running if you walk up to the bow at the dock as it lifts out of the water and that burns up the impeller water pump. Great motor, pushes us fron 0-hull Speed of 6 knts in 4 seconds, and stops in a boat length, can spin in a hull length if you turn the tiller and motor over at the same time. It runs hull speed at half throttle and is good on gas. PAINT DECKS -Our Dock Neighbour offers his skill . I painted my decks last summer. I didn't use Perfection, I used Brightsides (on the smooth parts - cabin sides, cockpit sides, etc.). It was my first roll and tip job. I wasn't sure how it would turn out. It turned out very well. I regret not using a 2 part paint, as they are more durable, and last longer. I used Interlux Epoxy Prime-Kote as the primer. The non-skid parts were painted with Interlux Interdeck. It isn't that difficult. The key to a good paint job is prep work. Here is a little list I compiled. Wash and scrub the hull thouroughly. Remove as much grime as possible. . No matter how old your boat is, or what you have used to clean it in the past, there will be mold release wax left on the gelcoat. This has to come off of the hull before you sand. Use a heavy duty surface prep solvent (Interlux paints recommends Interlux Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202) to remove any oils, wax or mold release agents still left on your boat. Use 2 rags, one to wipe the solvent on, one to wipe the solvent off. Use different parts of the rags with each wipe. Change rags frequently. Once you think you have it wiped sufficeintly, mist the surface with water. Anywhere the water beads up, solvent wipe again. You want to remove this before you start sanding, as sanding will drive this deeper into the gelcoat. It is good to solvent wipe between every step . Repair any scratches or dings. Use an epoxy based filler, or add fairing compound to epoxy to get a good consistency. . Sand thoroughly. You have to decide how fair you want the hull to be. Are you looking for a reasonably smooth job, or do you want a "perfect" finish? The roving in the fiberglass layup prints through, so it takes a fair amount of sanding to get rid of this (if you want that perfect finish). You will want to sand down to 320 - 400 grit before you start priming. . Tape extremely carefully and us the right tape. 3M #225 is a good choice. When taping, move very slowly and lay the tape down with careful attention to making sure you have solid adhesion everywhere. The quality of your taping job wil determine the quality of the paintjob. You might want to take measurements or scribe the boot and cove stripes if you would like to re-paint these when you are done. . The primer should go on smooth. You will want to add enough reducer to prevent brush marks or roller marks. If there are marks in your primer, they will show through to the paint. I had to sand off my first coat of paint, as the brush marks in the primer showed through. I am assuming you will using Interlux Epoxy Prime-Kote for this. It will take at least 2 coats of primer. Sand between coats (unless you are sparying). After sanding, tack cloth it (get some "low tack" tack clothes). Solvent wipe again. This should be done between every stage of painting/priming. If you sand through the primer, you will need to put more primer on, as the Perfection goes on so thin it is almost transparent. I did this, and it took 6 coats to mostly hide this. . When reducing your paint, you want it the conisistency of milk. It should be very thin and transparent. If brush marks are not flowing out, it probably needs reducing. The paint should also go on thin. I am assuming you are rolling and tipping. If the paint sags, the paint is going on too thick. Try rolling more paint off of the roller in the tray. The brush should not feel like it is dragging through the paint. Practise the technique on a scrap of glass/plexiglass to perfect your technique. It is not difficult. The paints are wonderful, but you need to get the technique down (it isn't really difficult, just practise for a few minutes first). . Follow manufacturers instructions for preparing the surface. If it says wipe down with a specific solvent, use that solvent. . When painting, be organized. With marine paint speed is important as you need to maintain a wet edge. Consider how you will move around the boat. Know where you will set the paint tray, roller, and brush down. You'll perfect the path around the boat during the primer coats, but foresight pays off. This doesn't mean that you should rush or hurry. Move efficiently, yet carefully. Rushing will lead to mistakes and poor results. . The topcoats will not hide imperfections in the primer. In fact, it will highlight them as it is glossier. If you see an unfair spot or a run, address it before moving on to the next coat. . However, if a run occurs while you're painting and you notice it after you've progressed well past that spot, leave it alone and deal with it after the paint cures by wet sanding it out. Trying to fix it while partially cured will only make it worse. Take lots of photos and post them here for us. Good luck. _________________ Rick Summer's Dawn #380
July 25 2004I have installed a LED Mast Light for all night anchor. It will run for many nights and not discharge the battery. In case you are unsure, I have installed a battery Volt Meter. You read it by switching over to battery 1 or 2. Then leave it in the OFF position. A charged battery has 12.6 or more volts. A reading of 12.40 volts is half charged. A reading of 12.00 volts is discharged and needs a few hours to re-charge. If you leave it discharged it will "sulfate" and kill the $125.00 battery for good. While charging, it may go up to 14.9 volts but will settle back to 12.8 volts when the charging is complete.
May 2004The Tiller is now repaired and works well. Please do not let your friends stand or sit on it. And have any guests you take out sign the liability waver in the Guest Book.
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How To SectionSetting up the spinnaker BCMarina.comOur local coast Sailing Photos and Charts http://www.bcmarina.com/ Oct 19, 2002 LIFE LINEAll new luxery Lifelines on the Aquavit.The design, by Brian Norquist, has three independent gates, and constant Bow safety line. Crimping by Ken C. Now our passengers can enter off a dock without tripping over a sagging line. I'm sure Brian's design and work will prevent injuries. Safety Award nomination for Brian. Ken C., FC.SJ24 Sept 18 02 . . Local Sailing Secrets . .
May 30 02: Click here for a Copy of the User Guide for taking the Aquavit out for a sail, A "must Read"Library articles FAQ on THE SJ24 Leaks & Racing FAQon Hull Leaks from SJ24 Group April 19 2002- I thought you'd like to know we have purchased a new (used) heavy weather jib. |
DecisionsAquavit users meeting minutes RULES as of April 29 th 04 1st.. We have simplified the 1/2 day Vs. full day booking. A half day booking will take place either side of 3 PM. i.e. dawn to 3 PM, or 3PM till dusk. Otherwise booking is a full day. ( If your booking is on the calendar for any time in the morning, please check that it is a Half day, it will be assumed you have a half day and someone will book for 15:00- so say it clearly ) 2nd.. We have set new user rates. A half day booking will cost $25.00, a full day booking will now cost $40.00. 3rd.. The payment system found at the Booking Link. 4th.. Each member can not have more than 2 bookings on the calendar at one time. Only one of these bookings can be a multi day booking. ( Note: if awaking on a given perfect day you have already 2 bookings on the calendar, and no one has a booking for this perfect day, you are more than welcome to book the boat immediately on the perfect day. Being perfect you might offer to take other clubbies along ) 5th.. If you cancel a booking you are still responsible for payment on that booking unless, 1) the weather is such that taking the boat out of the marina would be unsafe i.e. high winds/lighting ect. ect. NOTE: a cold rainy day is not a reason to cancel a booking. 2) If an e-mail is sent to the group 5 days in advance letting the group know the boat is available on the day in question. 6th.. Multi day bookings can not span more than 1 weekend. 7th..In order to book a overnighter on the Aquavit one must have some kind of yacht sailing certificate i.e. Power Squadron CYA Basic Cruising, Navigation, ect.
6 Aug 2004 20:13:22 -0000A few reminders from the Fleet Commander .. As this superb sailing summer continues I thought a few reminders would be helpful to ensure Aquavit stays in top shape and we all get to enjoy great sailing. 1. Non-staining shoes please! The white fiberglass is very easily scuffed by black-soled shoes.
2. Scrub the decks! Please spend a few minutes extra when you bring the boat back to wash and scrub the decks. There is a hose at the next dock and scub brushes etc on board. Basic rule, leave the boat cleaner than you found her. 3. Sea cocks. The galley sink sea-cock stays closed except when using the sink. The head sea cocks should also stay closed. In fact there is a leak from the head pump that requires the sea cock to be kept closed except when actually in use. (Note to maintenance-minded; a totally new head and holding tank would be a great idea for next season). 4. Stowing head sails. Leave sail hanked onto forestay. Stuff into sailbag, clew first. Finally remove hanks and leave tack and head on top of bag, ready for the next user. 5. If the gas tank is less than half when you return, fill it up. If in doubt, fill it up! Guests sign the waver & you sign out the Voyage Log Book. Ken C Sept 25 2003 Thank You Brian
Sept 7-8 02 Gulf Island TripHi fellow Aquavit users. My friend Phil and I had a great weekend sail. We left 0830 on Saturday with a nice SE wind and headed for Porlier Pass which we passed through at 1230. Headed north along the east side of Valdes in lovely sunshine (see photo in "Photos") and passed through Gabriola Passage at 1500. We spent the night at Paiges Marina in Silva Bay. Left around 0830 on Sunday with an "iffy" forecast of moderate to strong south easterlies rising to gale force around noon. It was a close reach all the way across in a steadily rising wind. First we reefed the main and then changed the #2 to the storm jib. (Anyone interested should talk to me about rigging that sail. I have a neat system using carabiners to change the pull of the jib sheets to make the sail set better.) We changed back to the #2 off Point Grey. With all the sail changes it was a not a fast crossing but we still made it to the marina by 1430 which ain't too bad. The last part of the trip was in heavy rain and both the storm jib and #2 were put away wet. Some of the cushions are also damp. Maybe the next person to use the boat could dry them out. The boat performed very well, including the new head! The tiller problem is now fixed. So are the stanchions in the stern. Good boat! Good weekend! Ken May 2003The SJ24 still serves us well. Colin found the Teak Tiller had cracked at the pivot and has removed it to redesign. Meanwhile a Softwood Tiller is installed. The traveller block set came off and also is taken for a rebuild, meanwhile a traditional system of lines is in place.We need get the interior completely scrubbed out before summer. Even soap & Pressure wash as the oil film is creeping into the cabin. Remove the gas can to refill it. Be sure the spare oil & Gas is sealed and upright. Our battery is not charged by running the motor. You have to connect the battery charger before/after your use. Please leave it on the 2 amp setting overnight. The 15 amp and the Activate settings are only for quick 15 minute charges. If the Red light for the Kitchen sink will not work and the pump is slow, then you do not have 12 volts there ! So charge it. Fair winds , Ken Christie FC |
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